{"id":371,"date":"2013-11-22T12:46:51","date_gmt":"2013-11-22T12:46:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/oliverberry.com\/?p=371"},"modified":"2014-04-26T09:14:12","modified_gmt":"2014-04-26T09:14:12","slug":"perfect-trip-to-yorkshire","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverberry.com\/writing\/perfect-trip-to-yorkshire\/","title":{"rendered":"The Perfect Trip to Yorkshire"},"content":{"rendered":"

[portfolio_slideshow id=371]<\/h3>\n

The Perfect Trip to Yorkshire for Lonely Planet Traveller<\/em> magazine, featuring visits to the Bront\u00eb’s family home in Haworth, the Three Peaks in Ribblesdale, the historic breweries of Masham, the dramatic coastline around Whitby and the little-explored North York Moors, one of the UK’s most under-rated national parks.\u00a0The article has since been syndicated worldwide.<\/h3>\n

On a related subject, I also recently wrote an online travel guide for the Lake District<\/a> published by The Telegraph.<\/p>\n

Project description: 16pp travel feature
\nClient: Lonely Planet Traveller
\nPublication Date: November 2012<\/p>\n

Haworth – best for Bront\u00ebs<\/h2>\n

Haworth is near the southeastern edge of the Yorkshire Dales, 20 miles\u2019 drive from Leeds.<\/em><\/p>\n

It\u2019s half an hour before opening at Haworth\u2019s Bront\u00eb Parsonage Museum, and the house\u2019s corridors are unusually quiet \u2013 save for the tick-tock of a grandfather clock, the occasional creak of a wooden floor and the twitter of thrushes in the trees outside. At the front, gabled windows look over cobbled lanes and the village churchyard; from the rear, the view is altogether wilder, revealing windswept heath, dry-stone walls and a moody, iron-grey sky.<\/p>\n

\u2018It\u2019s a privilege to be in the house when it\u2019s quiet like this,\u2019 notes Pat Berry, a lifelong Bront\u00eb enthusiast who now works at the museum as a curator and guide. \u2018This is when you experience the house as the sisters would have known it. Sometimes, I can almost hear the scratch of their pens coming from the rooms upstairs.\u2019<\/p>\n

England has many artistic landmarks, but few can match the literary cachet of Haworth. This quiet Yorkshire village was where the three best-known of the Bront\u00eb sisters \u2013 Anne, Charlotte and Emily \u2013 were born, lived and penned their most famous works, including Jane Eyre, The Tenant of Wildfell Hall and Wuthering Heights.<\/p>\n

The village is inextricably linked with the sisters\u2019 work: their books are full of locations from the village, and it\u2019s thought that they modelled many of their characters on its residents. A short walk across the moors is the famous waterfall where they gathered for picnics and alfresco reading sessions; further on is the ruined farmstead of Top Withens, supposedly the model for Heathcliff\u2019s house in Wuthering Heights.<\/p>\n

\u2018The girls lived nearly their entire lives here, so really their whole world was Haworth,\u2019 Pat explains. \u2018It\u2019s only once you\u2019ve visited that you realise what an important part the village, and Yorkshire generally, plays in their work. It makes you view the books in an entirely different way.\u2019<\/p>\n

She opens the door into the parsonage\u2019s parlour, where the sisters worked together at wooden writing palettes, exchanging ideas, discussing themes and reading their latest passages. Upstairs, the bedrooms are filled with their furniture, clothes and possessions: in one cabinet is a set of miniscule books they wrote as children, filled with spidery scrawl that\u2019s only legible through a magnifying glass.<\/p>\n

Sadly, the sisters\u2019 own story had a tragic ending. Anne, Emily and their brother Branwell died within eight months of each other between 1848 and 1849. Charlotte followed six years later, soon after marrying the village curate, Arthur Bell Nicholls.<\/p>\n

But the Bront\u00ebs\u2019 early deaths only seem to have intensified their readers\u2019 fascination: Haworth has become a place of pilgrimage, and each year thousands of people flock to the village to wander the lanes, the moors and settle in for tea in one of its caf\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

\u2018This place gives us a wonderful insight into the sisters\u2019 lives,\u2019 Pat says, as visitors begin to file through the parsonage\u2019s front door, many clutching dog-eared copies of the Bront\u00ebs\u2019 novels. \u2018They were so close to each other that we really shouldn\u2019t view each book in isolation. In one way, they\u2019re all chapters in a larger story.\u2019<\/p>\n

FURTHER INFORMATION
\nBront\u00eb Parsonage Museum (admission \u00a37; bronte.org.uk<\/a>)
\nhaworth-village.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n

Ribblesdale – best for walking<\/h2>\n

Ribblesdale runs for several miles along the western edge of the Dales. Horton-in-Ribblesdale is about six miles north of Settle, or 35 miles north of Haworth via the A65.<\/em>
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\u2018That\u2019s it \u2013 we\u2019re all set!\u2019 announces Sylvia Grieve, as she stamps her boots, adjusts her backpack and takes a last swig of tea. Around her, the other members of the Preston & District Walking Club are getting ready for the day\u2019s hike: water bottles are filled, jackets are zipped and bootlaces tied, and a few of the walkers plot out the route ahead on a well-thumbed Ordnance Survey map, their breath clouding in the morning air.<\/p>\n

\u2018There\u2019s nothing better than being out early on the hills,\u2019 smiles Sylvia, pulling a telescopic walking pole from one of her backpack pockets. \u2018I\u2019ve been hiking here for 30 years, and I still get excited every time I put on my boots. I mean, just look at that view,\u2019 she exclaims. \u2018No wonder they call this God\u2019s Own County!\u2019<\/p>\n

She gestures across the Ribble Valley where a fuzzy sun is rising above the hilltops, tinting the land in olive greens, fox-fur oranges and chestnut browns. In the distance, two squat peaks brood on the ridgeline, their summits wreathed in cloud: the mountains of Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent which, along with nearby Whernside, make up Yorkshire\u2019s three highest peaks. \u2018I don\u2019t think we\u2019ll be tackling those today though,\u2019 she chuckles, half-grimacing at the thought. \u2018I think I\u2019d need a few more cups of tea for that.\u2019<\/p>\n

While Sylvia and her team are planning a more modest stroll, there are plenty of other walkers who have already set out on Yorkshire\u2019s most formidable hike: the Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge, in which participants must conquer the summits of all three mountains in 12 hours or fewer. Covering 24.5 miles and several thousand feet of ascent, it\u2019s a formidable proposition, although that doesn\u2019t seem to deter the thousands who visit the valley every year to put their hiking mettle to the test.<\/p>\n

The traditional starting point is the Pen-y-Ghent Caf\u00e9 in the hamlet of Horton-in-Ribblesdale, where an antique clock allows walkers to stamp their start and finish times. Those who complete the route in the allotted time are officially admitted to the Three Peaks of Yorkshire Club, a coveted badge of honour for every self-respecting British walker. The record time for the route is an astonishing two hours, 29 minutes and 53 seconds, set by local fell-runner Jeff Norman in 1974 and still never bettered.<\/p>\n

\u2018Oh yes, I\u2019ve already done the Three Peaks twice,\u2019 says Sylvia matter-of-factly, apparently unfazed by her advanced years. \u2018In fact, I\u2019m planning to do it again soon. I rather fancy seeing in my next birthday on top of Ingleborough. That would be a grand way to celebrate, wouldn\u2019t it?\u2019<\/p>\n

She chuckles, slips on a bobble-hat and tramps off down the path, watched by a flock of Ribblesdale\u2019s resident sheep. Before long she\u2019s disappeared, swallowed up by a patchwork of pastures and russet-red hills.<\/p>\n

FURTHER INFORMATION
\nyorkshiredales.org.uk<\/a>
\npdwc.org<\/a><\/p>\n

Masham – best for ale<\/h2>\n

Masham is on the east side of the Dales. The quickest route from Horton-in-Ribblesdale is north along the A684 via Aysgarth and Leyburn.<\/em><\/p>\n

Plumes of steam are rising from the chimneys of the old Theakston\u2019s Brewery as Jonathan Manby ties on his apron and starts work for another day. Around him are arranged all the tools of a cooper\u2019s trade \u2013 clamps, hammers, jiggers, adzes, crozes and planes heaped on the workbench alongside iron hoops and oak staves. In the background a collage of brewery posters and beer mats lines the workshop\u2019s walls, and a brick furnace glows orange in the gloom.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u2018I\u2019ve been a cooper for 17 years, but I\u2019ve been drinking ale for a good deal longer,\u2019 he says, running a spoke-shave down the edge of a half-finished keg. \u2018We\u2019ve got a tradition of brewing in Yorkshire that goes back hundreds of years, so we should know what we\u2019re doing by now!\u2019 He chortles gruffly, then picks up a mallet and starts to beat a hoop into shape, sending sparks cascading across the workshop\u2019s floor.<\/p>\n

Just east of the Yorkshire Dales, the little village of Masham has been a centre for the brewing industry since 1827, when local businessman and philanthropist Robert Theakston founded his family brewery here, attracted by the famously clear spring water, which \u2013 according to ale aficionados \u2013 gives Masham\u2019s ales their special taste.<\/p>\n

In its heyday during the late 19th century, the village was home to several working breweries, although now only two remain: Theakston\u2019s and its rival Black Sheep Brewery, established in 1992 just across the village.<\/p>\n

\u2018Brewing\u2019s halfway between a science and an art, just like wine-making,\u2019 explains Jonathan. \u2018There are so many things that can affect the taste \u2013 the hops, malt and barley you use, how you roast them, how you blend them. Any idiot can follow a recipe, but to make a great beer, well, that takes proper skill!\u2019<\/p>\n

A hundred years ago, all Yorkshire\u2019s breweries would have employed their own teams of coopers, but these days, the use of metal barrels has rendered their craft largely obsolete, and Jonathan is now one of only two working coopers left in Britain.<\/p>\n

But while the technologies have moved on, the basics of the brewer\u2019s art have hardly changed in centuries. Inside the brew-halls, malt and barley roast in giant ovens, before being fermented with yeast and flavoured with hops: it\u2019s the combination of these ingredients that give each beer its distinctive colour, strength and flavour, from dark porters through to amber ales. This is a complex process with its own arcane language \u2013 mash tuns and worts, scuppets and roundels, sparges and hop backs \u2013 set to a constant soundtrack of rattling bottles and chugging machinery.<\/p>\n

\u2018Oh aye, it\u2019s a world of its own, is brewing!\u2019 laughs Jonathan, as he adds the finished cask to several others piled outside the workshop\u2019s door. \u2018It\u2019s part of our heritage. I couldn\u2019t imagine life without ale. For me, it would be like taking away cricket and Yorkshire pudding.\u2019<\/p>\n

FURTHER INFORMATION
\nTheakston’s Brewery (tours \u00a36.50; theakstons.co.uk<\/a>).
\nBlack Sheep Brewery (tours \u00a35.95; blacksheepbrewery.com<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Staithes to Bempton Cliffs – best for coast<\/h2>\n

The A172 skirts along the northwestern edge of the North York Moors, then the A171 offers a scenic route across the rolling hills to Whitby.<\/em><\/p>\n

It\u2019s only a couple of hours after dawn, but Yorkshire\u2019s fossil hunters are already out in force. Armed with rock hammers and magnifying glasses, they scan the beach for signs: a fissure in a rock, the sparkle of a mineral, a swirl inside a limestone shard. Slowly, the sound of tapping hammers begins to echo across the beach, mingling with the cries of gannets and the rumble of surf smashing on the shoreline.<\/span><\/p>\n

Stretching for 45 miles along the county\u2019s eastern border, Yorkshire\u2019s coastline is one of Britain\u2019s richest hunting grounds for fossil collectors, second only in prestige to Dorset\u2019s Jurassic Coast. A combination of sandy soils, geological shifts and rapidly eroding cliffs have uncovered some of the nation\u2019s most impressive prehistoric finds here \u2013 from giant, spiral-shaped ammonites to fossilised dinosaur footprints.<\/p>\n

\u2018One of my best finds was a prehistoric crocodile,\u2019 says Byron Blessed, a fossil collector and palaeontologist who runs a geological shop in the nearby harbour town of Whitby. \u2018I saw the tip of its snout poking out of a rock, and when I looked closer, I couldn\u2019t believe my luck. Finds like that are incredibly rare \u2013 for a fossilhunter, it\u2019s a bit like winning the Lottery!\u2019<\/p>\n

He points out a few other prize discoveries inside his shop\u2019s cabinets: a giant shark\u2019s tooth, a trilobite the size of a dinner plate, the fossilised jawbone of a mammoth dredged up from the North Sea. \u2018It\u2019s really just a question of knowing what to look for,\u2019 Byron continues. \u2018Once you\u2019ve learned the basics, you\u2019d be astonished how many fossils are out there just waiting to be found.\u2019<\/p>\n

The Yorkshire coast\u2019s other claim to fame is as the birthplace of the globetrotting explorer Captain Cook, who fell in love with the sea while working in a grocer\u2019s shop in the little fishing port of Staithes, and whose childhood home in Whitby has now been turned into a museum.<\/p>\n

Just as in Cook\u2019s day, much of Yorkshire\u2019s coastline is still a working landscape, home to bustling seaside resorts and big fishing fleets. But away from the harbours and coastal towns, traces of wildness still survive in many areas, from the quiet cove of Runswick Bay to the craggy Bempton Cliffs, which harbour some of Britain\u2019s largest colonies of gannets, kittiwakes, puffins and guillemots.<\/p>\n

For Byron, Yorkshire\u2019s coastline is special. \u2018This is one of Britain\u2019s most important prehistoric landscapes,\u2019 he says, turning over a huge ammonite in his hands, its polished surface glinting gently in the sunlight. \u2018Every time we pick up a fossil, we\u2019re actually looking millions of years into the past. It\u2019s a bit like having access to your own time machine. That\u2019s pretty amazing when you think about it.\u2019<\/p>\n

He grins and steps outside his shop, as clouds of chattering gulls wheel over Whitby\u2019s granite harbour, and a fishing boat bobs slowly out across the North Sea.<\/p>\n

FURTHER INFORMATION
\nfossils-uk.com<\/a>
\ndiscoveryorkshirecoast.com<\/a>
\nwhitby.co.uk<\/a>
\nCaptain Cook Memorial Museum (admission \u00a34.50; cookmuseumwhitby.co.uk<\/a>).<\/p>\n

North York Moors – best for wild views<\/h2>\n

Several scenic routes cross the moors to Helmsley; the drive along Blakey Ridge is arguably the most dramatic, but the A169 through Pickering is faster.<\/em><\/p>\n

A sheen of haze hangs over the fields as Simon Bassindale\u2019s truck trundles along a track high on the North York Moors. \u2018I love this kind of weather. It\u2019s one of the best things about the job,\u2019 he says, tapping the ranger\u2019s badge pinned to his chest. \u2018When everyone else is indoors, I have this place pretty much to myself.\u2019<\/span><\/p>\n

He stops the truck, pulls out a pair of binoculars and scans the landscape, steadying his elbows against the bonnet. Around him, empty moorland stretches in every direction, dotted with shrubs and swathes of purple heather. \u2018Not a bad view, eh?\u2019 Simon says, as birds dart and weave over the heather-tops, and the honk of a wild grouse blares out from the undergrowth.<\/p>\n

It might not be as well known as some of Britain\u2019s National Parks, but the landscapes of the North York Moors are every bit as precious. Covering 554 sq miles of heath, valley, gorge, copse and pasture, it\u2019s home to England\u2019s largest remaining expanses of heather moorland \u2013 an increasingly scarce habitat that supports a huge number of native species, from butterflies, birds, mammals and reptiles to rare plants such as sphagnum moss, cotton-grass and bog rosemary.<\/p>\n

But while the moors might seem like an untouched wilderness, in fact they\u2019re one of the nation\u2019s oldest managed landscapes. Prehistoric people cleared the trees and founded settlements; medieval monks built abbeys in the valleys and grazed sheep on the uplands; Victorian industrialists mined the area for minerals such as alum, jet and ironstone. The days of heavy industry are long since past, however: the North York Moors became a national park in 1952, and these days they\u2019re largely the preserve of hikers and wildlife spotters, who come to wander the trails and visit panoramic viewpoints such as Roseberry Topping, Blakey Ridge and Sutton Bank.<\/p>\n

\u2018Many of the rights of way can be traced back to the Middle Ages, and some were probably established long before that,\u2019 Simon explains, as he strides along a rutted path, surrounded by a carpet of tangled heather. \u2018But it\u2019s important to remember that this is still fundamentally working country \u2013 and we should do everything we can to respect that.\u2019<\/p>\n

FURTHER INFORMATION
\nnorthyorkmoors.org.uk<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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