{"id":1601,"date":"2022-05-22T09:01:13","date_gmt":"2022-05-22T09:01:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oliverberry.com\/?p=1601"},"modified":"2023-11-03T08:00:23","modified_gmt":"2023-11-03T08:00:23","slug":"easter-island-to-the-ends-of-the-earth","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverberry.com\/writing\/easter-island-to-the-ends-of-the-earth\/","title":{"rendered":"To the ends of the earth"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

From the mysterious moai of Easter Island to the glaciers and mountains of Patagonia, Chile is a country that\u2019s primed for adventure, discovers Oliver Berry<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018Welcome to the madhouse!\u2019 laughs artist Juan Jimenez, as he climbs into the cramped cabin of one of Valpara\u00edso\u2019s century-old funiculars, shuts the door and clings on. With a clank and a shudder, the hundred year-old machine creaks into life and rattles up the hillside, gears whining with the strain. As it climbs, views of Valpara\u00edso expand to fill its windows: tin-roofed houses tumbling down the steep hillsides, giant cranes unloading cargo from container ships,  trams beetling their way along the city\u2019s boulevards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Born and bred in Valpara\u00edso, Juan now makes his living as a street artist, painting the psychedelic, technicolour murals that emblazon the walls and alleyways of the city\u2019s old quarters. He\u2019s passionate about his home town, and deeply proud of the fact that it\u2019s now designated as one of Chile\u2019s five World Heritage Sites. \u2018Of course, everyone in Valpara\u00edso knows what a beautiful place this is,\u2019 he says. \u2018But now the world knows it too.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He emerges onto a cobbled square, bordered by colonial-style houses painted in rainbow colours: lemon, pistachio, ochre, sky-blue. In one corner, locals sip coffee at a pavement caf\u00e9, and a brass band is blasting out mariachi tunes. Inspired by the music, the customers get to their feet, sashaying their way across the cobbles like ballroom pros.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018That\u2019s Valpara\u00edso for you,\u2019 smiles Gabriel. \u2018Full of surprises.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

***<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s a sentiment that could just as equally be applied to the rest of Chile. Though it averages just 177km wide, it stretches for more than 4270km from end to end \u2013 roughly the same distance as from London to Baghdad. It\u2019s a huge country, a long ribbon of land that packs in an astonishing diversity of landscapes – from barren desert to temperate rainforest, tropical island to craggy coastline, flat pampas to epic mountain range. So it\u2019s perhaps not surprising that as you travel across Chile, it often feels more like you\u2019re crossing a continent than a country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If Valpara\u00edso is Chile\u2019s version of San Francisco, then Patagonia is its Alaska. Located at the opposite end of the country, some 3000km to the south of Valpara\u00edso \u2013 as far south as you can go in South America, in fact – this vast territory is one of South America\u2019s last great wildernesses, spanning the Chilean-Argentinian border for a million square kilometres between the Andes and Cape Horn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s a land defined by emptiness. Flat pampas sprawl to both horizons, broken up only by the occasional clapboard house or skeletal tree. Saw-tooth mountains spike the skyline, their summits glinting with glaciers and snow. Dirt roads disapppear into nothingness. Occasionally, a lone gaucho trots past, boots lodged into stirrups, beret perched on his head. It\u2019s like wandering into a Chilean Wild West.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s also a long, long way from anywhere. It takes 4 hours by plane from Santiago to reach the airport at Punta Arenas, and another 4\u00bd hours by car to reach the edge of the national park of Torres del Paine. And that\u2019s before you even start to explore the national park itself \u2013 which, at 2400 sq km, covers an area roughly the size of Dorset. It\u2019s Chile\u2019s most popular national park, receiving around 140,000 visitors every year, but thanks to its scale, never feels crowded. In fact, it\u2019s not unusual to hike for hours and never pass another soul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018I love the silence,\u2019 says Monica Schalmeister, who guides expeditions from one of the area\u2019s top adventure hotels, Tierra Patagonia. \u2018Most of the time, apart from the wind, you can\u2019t hear a sound. When I go back to the city, the noise drives me crazy. I can\u2019t wait to come back!\u2019 she laughs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She trudges up a path fringed by alpine meadows, and after ten minutes of emerges on a ridge offering a panoramic vista over the Torres del Paine – the Blue Towers, in the local Tehuelce dialect. In the distance, mountain lakes sparkle like silver mirrors, and wild llamas, or guanacos, graze on the tawny grass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Monica points to a bundle of bones beside the trail, its vertebrae still tufted with fur. \u2018This is what happens when a guanaco meets a puma,\u2019 she says with a grin. \u2018We still have many puma here, between sixty and eighty inside the national park, more than anywhere else in Chile\u2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

She points skywards, where a bird is tracing circles overhead, its black wing-tips splayed like fingers against the sky. It\u2019s a condor, Monica explains, looking for carcasses to scavenge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018Patagonia is still a wild place,\u2019 she adds, as she treks back down the hillside. \u2018And that makes it really precious. There aren\u2019t many wildernesses like this left in the world, and we must all do what we can to protect them.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

***<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Patagonia feels profoundly, thrillingly wild, in a way very few places in our modern world now do. But even here, the outside world is never more than a few hours away. For true remoteness, you have to leave the Chilean mainland and head eastwards \u2013 3700km east, to a tiny speck of rock marooned in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Here, surrounded by an endless sea of blue, lies an island that\u2019s as far away as it\u2019s possible to get from anywhere else on earth. To its inhabitants, it\u2019s called Rapa Nui; to everyone else, it\u2019s better known as Easter Island.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These days, it takes just five hours to reach by plane, but before the arrival of the first European explorers in 1722, this tiny island might as well have been on another planet. 25km long, 11km wide, and surrounded by 165 million square kilometres of open ocean, it seems almost impossible that people ever found it in the first place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But find it they did. It\u2019s believed the island was colonised by Polynesian sailors  between 700 and 1100AD; having settled here, the people of Rapa Nui were cut off from the wider world, and developed their unique culture, language and beliefs in almost total isolation for nigh on a millennia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Part of that culture, of course, involved the construction of Easter Island\u2019s most famous features \u2013 the mysterious stone statues, or moai<\/em>, that litter the island\u2019s hills, beaches and shorelines. There are just under 900 in all, carved at various points between 1100 and 1680BC; most are arranged as lone figures or small groups, but there are a few large alignments such as the Tongariki Fifteen, which stand guard over the island\u2019s southeast coastline. They\u2019re the only physical reminder of the civilisation that once flourished on Rapa Nui \u2013 even if no-one is quite sure why they were actually built in the first place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018The most accepted theory is that the moai<\/em> represent the ariki<\/em>, or kings,\u2019 explains guide Luiz Guzman, as he steers a 4×4 across the island\u2019s hills. \u2018There were between twelve and fifteen different clans on the island, each with its own king, and it\u2019s believed that the moai<\/em> embodied the kings\u2019 mana<\/em>, or power. But it\u2019s only a theory; no-one knows for sure. Rapa Nui is full of mysteries!\u2019 he laughs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He stops the jeep and hops out, leading the way down onto a white, sandy beach. It\u2019s deserted, but there\u2019s a curious feeling of being watched: a prickle on the back of the neck, as if unseen eyes are gazing from the undergrowth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And in a way, they are. At the edge of the beach, a row of statues stands, like sentinels guarding a castle battlement. Standing three metres high, arms folded across their bellies, eyes fixed on the hills inland, the figures seem like they\u2019re watching, or waiting, for something. They\u2019ve been waiting a long time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Almost as mysterious as the statues\u2019 purpose is what happened to the people who made them. When the first European sailor, Jacob Roggeveen, arrived on Easter Day in 1722, he found the island all but deserted; most of the villages had been abandoned, and every one of the island\u2019s moai<\/em> lay topped in the grass, smashed and broken, as though beset by some great disaster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018There are many theories about what happened to the moai<\/em>,\u2019 Luis explains. \u2018We think they were toppled during tribal warfare, part of a wider social breakdown caused by environmental collapse, introduced diseases, crop failures and slave-raids. Whatever happened, Rapa Nui should be a warning for us. No matter how sophisticated our society gets, nothing lasts forever.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dusk is falling over the island, but Luis has one last sight up his sleeve. He steers his jeep up a rutted track into the island\u2019s treeless interior, and stops on a rocky hillside \u2013 actually the flank of one of the island\u2019s three volcanoes, he explains. As darkness gathers, he hikes up a trail lined by moai<\/em> heads leaning drunkenly at improbable angles, or tumbled sideways into the grass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018This is Rano Raraku,\u2019 Luis explains. \u2018Easter Island\u2019s quarry. It\u2019s the only place where you find the soft volcanic rock, called tuff, which was used to make the moai<\/em>. They were carved here, then transported to their final locations \u2013 although how they were moved such long distances is still a matter of debate. Like I said, Rapa Nui is a puzzle to which we\u2019ll never know all the answers.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We ponder the mysteries of Easter Island as swifts flutter and dart around the giant heads, and a candy-pink sun sets over the Pacific. Gradually, the sky turns black, and constellations spangle the darkness, a sea of stars stretching overhead.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018Every day you play with the light of the universe,\u2019 wrote the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. It\u2019s a line the people of Rapa Nui might have understood \u2013 and one which echoes in my ears as we head for home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

WHERE TO STAY<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

VALPARA\u00cdSO<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Palacio Astoreca<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Restored and reopened in 2012, this grand colonial mansion is one of the best places to stay in the city, located on the edge of the vibrant neighbourhood of Concepci\u00f3n. Rooms are full of local artworks and sleek mid-century furniture, and nearly every one has a view \u2013 either over the city or Valpara\u00edso Bay (rooms from \u00a3190, hotelpalacioastoreca.com<\/a>).<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

TORRES DEL PAINE<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tierra Patagonia<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This striking hotel was designed by the award-winning Chilean architect Cazu Zegers, and uses nature for its inspiration. It\u2019s a beguiling combination of curves, concrete and glass, all clad in wood from the local lenga tree, and designed to disappear into the surrounding landscape. Staying here is a cinematic experience: epic views of the Torres del Paine unfurl through the panoramic windows, and it\u2019s full of luxury touches, from an indulgent mountain-view spa to the team of inhouse guides who lead daily expeditions (3-night stay from \u00a31885 per person, including all meals and excursions, www.tierrahotels.com<\/a>).<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

EASTER ISLAND<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Explora Rapa Nui<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Modelled on the traditional stone houses once used by the Rapa Nui people, this luxurious hotel is the only 5-star property on the island. It sits in private gardens with sweeping views of the southern coastline, and rooms are spacious and smart, with bright, tropical colour schemes, rainfall showers and complementary water bottles to take home. All excursions and meals are included (2 nights from \u00a32059 per room, explora.com<\/a>).<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

From the mysterious moai of Easter Island to the glaciers and mountains of Patagonia, Chile is a country that\u2019s primed for adventure, discovers Oliver Berry<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1602,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"footnotes":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nEaster Island - To the ends of the earth | Oliver Berry<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"From the mysterious moai of Easter Island to the glaciers and mountains of Patagonia, Chile is a country that\u2019s primed for adventure\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/oliverberry.com\/writing\/easter-island-to-the-ends-of-the-earth\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Easter Island - 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