{"id":1560,"date":"2020-09-14T10:50:45","date_gmt":"2020-09-14T10:50:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/oliverberry.com\/?p=1560"},"modified":"2023-11-27T08:12:07","modified_gmt":"2023-11-27T08:12:07","slug":"cornish-sardines","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/oliverberry.com\/writing\/cornish-sardines\/","title":{"rendered":"Cornish Sardines"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Cornish sardines (otherwise known as pilchards) have been fished in Cornwall for hundreds of years. This commission for Waitrose Magazine covered the state of the industry and its past, present and future.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

***<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s half an hour after dusk, somewhere out in the middle of Mount\u2019s Bay, but for fisherman Peter Bullock, the evening\u2019s work is just beginning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the lights of Penzance promenade twinkle along the shoreline, he steers his boat Vesta<\/em> further out into the bay, eyes flitting between his sonar screen and the flat sea ahead. Nearby, several other boats chug past, silhouetted against St Michael\u2019s Mount as they scan the waters in search of their quarry: sardines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMy job isn\u2019t really that different to the old days,\u201d Peter says, sipping tea from a chipped mug, one hand on the boat\u2019s wheel. \u2018Admittedly, we\u2019ve got a few gizmos to help us nowadays \u2013 sonar, GPS, machinery and so on. But essentially it\u2019s the same game as it was a century ago: find the fish, shoot your net, get \u2018em into the boat and back to harbour quick as you can. And just like then, the trickiest part isn\u2019t actually catching them. It\u2019s finding the bloody things in the first place!\u201d he says with a rueful chuckle, his face illuminated by the green glare of the navigation screen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then, a few minutes later, he spots something. A dark red shape appears on the sonar, and Peter shouts out to his two deckhands, Matt Round and Ian Haggis, to get ready. Suddenly, the deck of the Vesta<\/em> is alive with action: the net is shot, floats whizzing out over the transom as Peter steers the boat in a wide circle, before completing the loop and letting the winch take up the slack. Slowly, the net draws tight, and a sheen of bubbles appears on the surface, followed soon afterwards by the prize: a shimmering, glinting, roiling mass of sardines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cDecent catch, that is,\u201d Peter says, watching his crew haul the fish onto the Vesta\u2019s<\/em> deck and into the ice-water tanks. \u201cA good five tonne, I reckon. One more like that and we\u2019ll be done for the evening. Happy days!\u201d he laughs, a smile breaking out across his face as the crew stows away the net, ready for the next shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sardine fishing has been practised in this part of Cornwall for hundreds of years; at its height during the 18th<\/sup> and 19th<\/sup> centuries, it was almost as important to the local economy as tin-mining. Vast shoals of sardines (or pilchards, as they were then known) were a common sight up and down the southwest coastline, from Penzance to Plymouth. Entire communities relied on the fish for their livelihood, salting and drying the fish for export across the continent and beyond. But around the end of the 19th<\/sup> century, the market began to dry up; after peaking in the 1920s, the industry entered decades of decline, exacerbated by overfishing, competition from rival fisheries and the increasing availability of frozen fish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the 1970s and 80s the industry had dwindled almost to nothing, but that wasn\u2019t quite the end of the story. In the early 1990s a local skipper based in Cadgwith, Martin Ellis, determined to start fishing sardines again – but rather than using traditional drift nets, he decided to maximise the quality of his catch by using ring nets, a technique more usually employed to fish herring and mackerel in Scotland. Martin\u2019s strategy paid off: having effectively been unfished for decades, Cornwall\u2019s sardine stocks were in plentiful supply, and soon supermarkets, fishmongers and chefs across Cornwall were clamouring for them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spin the clock forward twenty years, and the industry is in robust health: there are now thirteen sardine boats operating across the southwest (nine in Newlyn, one in Mevagissey and three in Plymouth), collectively exporting to a market that stretches right across the European Union.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAll too often the story around UK fishing is one of doom and gloom,\u201d explains Gus Caslake, the regional manager for Seafish Southwest, which supports the UK\u2019s seafood industry. \u201cBut Cornish sardines are a good news story. Stocks are thriving thanks to a careful programme of scientific monitoring and sustainable management, and everyone in the fleet is committed to protecting this resource for future generations. Forget cod and haddock. In my opinion, we should all be eating more sardines!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As a pelagic fish, Cornish sardines grow quickly, growing to maturity in just three years. The main season runs from July to March, when the fish return from spawning out in the Atlantic. In winter, as water temperatures cool, they cluster together in\u00a0 shoals, making them easier to catch, but rarely moving far out into deep water. Since they prefer to stay in shallow inlets and bays, most Cornish sardines are caught within a mile or two of the shore, meaning that they can only be fished by small inshore boats rather than large factory trawlers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s a model example of low-impact, small-scale, sustainable fishing. Each boat is capable of taking a maximum of thirty tonnes of fish per night, compared to a pelagic trawler\u2019s potential haul of a thousand tonnes or more. Amazingly, the majority of Cornwall\u2019s sardines are on their way to the customer within just a few hours of being caught. The fishermen have even formed their own steering group, the Cornish Sardine Management Association, to ensure best fishing practice across the industry. Their strategy is clearly working: according to the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), Cornish sardines are classed as one of the UK\u2019s most sustainable fish, one of only two species to be awarded (along with Cornish hake) the MSC\u2019s coveted blue label for sustainability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSustainability is everything for us,\u201d Peter says, his yellow overalls glinting with silvery fish scales. \u201cOf course we all need to make a living, but we\u2019re only scratching the surface in terms of the stock. Our main concern is to make sure there\u2019s a future for this industry. Everything we do is geared around that.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Across the bay, on the deck of the Resolute, <\/em>James Roberts and his crew have just completed their second haul of the night. It\u2019s another decent catch: three tonnes, bringing their evening\u2019s haul to the target of ten. As the fish disappear down into the hold, James brews up some tea on a battered old camp-stove, just as the first sliver of sunrise pinks the horizon, lighting up the craggy shape of St Michael\u2019s Mount.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cFishing\u2019s in my blood, I guess,\u201d he says, steering his boat back through the gap of Newlyn\u2019s granite-walled harbour. Now in his early thirties, James is one of the fleet\u2019s youngest skippers, but he\u2019s already been fishing for more than a decade, having served as a deckhand for several years before finally being given the chance to skipper his own boat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMy great grand-dad was a sardine fisherman – sorry, pilchard fisherman, he\u2019d tell me off for saying that! I got hooked on it aged eight or nine I suppose, when my second cousin took me out, and after that I always knew it\u2019s what I wanted to do. For me, there\u2019s something about being out on the water, in the elements, being part of this tradition that\u2019s been part of Cornwall for so long.\u201d He looks up at Newlyn\u2019s old fish market, fresh from its recent multi-million pound revamp, and the tight-packed warren of fishermen\u2019s cottages clustered over the steep hillside beyond.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cDown here in Newlyn, fishing is more than just a job,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s a way of life.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

***<\/p>\n\n\n\n

cornishsardines.org.uk<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

msc.org<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pilchard or sardine?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Officially, according to the UK\u2019s Sea Fish Industry Authority, sardines are simply young pilchards; any fish under 15cm in length is classed as a sardine, while any fish over that is classed as a pilchard. But in most fishmongers and supermarkets, the catch-all term of \u2018Cornish sardines\u2019 is used \u2013 although it\u2019s more a branding exercise than a scientific classification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Related stories<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A Cup of Java – coffee growing in Indonesia<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cornish sardines (otherwise known as pilchards) have been fished in Cornwall for hundreds of years. 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